3 /5 Ronald Freitag: Review: Still Smoking, But Fading Fast
Stepping into this local spot—a simple metal building perched on the side of a divided highway—you immediately feel the history. This is a place where locals gather, drawn by the scent of smoke and the promise of Texas tradition. The establishment proudly holds a previous Texas Monthly 50 Top BBQ award and currently sits on the Top 100 list. While the prices remain wonderfully reasonable, the food unfortunately suggests a clear reason for its recent slide in the rankings.
The Meats: Missing the Mark
The centerpiece of any Texas barbecue joint, the brisket, was sadly underwhelming. While not entirely unpalatable, the slices leaned heavily toward the dry side and were noticeably lacking in deep, smoky flavor. The bark—often the crowning glory—was salty and tough, needing significant work to achieve that perfect textural contrast.
The ribs offered a similar study in contrasts. They achieved a commendable pull and easy separation from the bone, indicating proper cooking technique. However, the flavor profile was strange: distinctly hammy, with an uninspired bark that offered little in the way of seasoning or crust.
Rounding out the proteins, the sausage was frankly plain and uninspiring, adding nothing memorable to the plate.
The Sides: A Tale of Two Dishes
The sides were hit or miss, making the highlights shine even brighter against the disappointments.
The mac and cheese was the primary letdown, tasting regrettably like a processed, boxed variety with a flavor that fell flat, relying heavily on artificial cheese notes.
However, the potatoes were the undisputed star of the meal. A flavorful mix of spuds, onions, cheese, and a robust blend of spices, these were executed beautifully and proved to be the kind of memorable side dish a Top 50 joint should be famous for.
Final Verdict
The reasonable pricing and comforting local atmosphere are huge positives, making this an accessible gathering place. Yet, for a place carrying the weight of such prominent awards, the food is disappointingly average. It is evident why this former Top 50 winner has slipped down the rankings. The execution of the brisket, ribs, and mac and cheese needs a significant overhaul to recapture the glory of its earlier days. Visit for the atmosphere and the excellent potatoes, but temper your expectations for the smokehouse staples.
